“I like that a wine can express itself differently on several plates”

It is after having worked for many years in the kitchens of palaces – those of the Plaza Athénée, the Meurice, the Crillon and the Bristol in Paris, then the Ritz and the Rosewood in London – that Amandine Chaignot opens her own restaurant in rue d’Enghien, Pouliche, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris in 2019. Rebelote in September 2021, when it pays homage to Parisian troquets by opening a second address in Montmartre, the Café de Luce, where people come to sit down to eat in front of the great classics of bistro gastronomy. Two places in his image and that of his relationship to wine, namely simple, lively and spontaneous. But if some chefs remember having been immersed in the bath since their earliest childhood, Amandine Chaignot claims, on the contrary, to have grown up in a family where wine was always on the table, “never in excess, nor extravagantly“. His apprenticeship will really begin by officiating in the kitchens of the stars: “I’m lucky enough to get along pretty well with the people around me. Many chefs and sommeliers have made me taste the wines on the menu, and I owe them some of my greatest emotions, such as the Morgon from Marcel Lapierre or a Saint-Emilion from Château Ausone, on an old vintage.“. If she affirms that wine occupies an important place in her approach to gastronomy, she admits that she prefers to drink it while cooking than cooking it, and rather in harmony than in sauce: “My cuisine is very plant-based, herbaceous, and therefore lends itself more to white wines. I rarely think of a dish from a wine, because I like that a wine can express itself differently on several plates. There’s plenty of ways to feel a deal“. From Languedoc to Champagne via the Loire, Beaujolais and Burgundy, she delivers to Figaro Vin her wide spread selection of the moment.

Domaine de La Perinade – Cuvée Renaissance
Languedoc-Pays d’Oc
Price: from €10.50

A pure Grenache Noir vinified in rosé, with a fresh and lively attack, with a few apricot aromas on the nose which continue on the palate with rounder and salivating notes of yellow fruits and citrus. “A cuvée to sip all summer long in magnum format!“. The ideal pairing: an aperitif with friends.

Champagne Taittinger – Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2008
Champagne
Price: from 220 €

One of the emblematic cuvées of the Taittinger house, created in homage to Count Thibaud IV, King of Navarre, who according to legend brought back the ancestor of Chardonnay from a crusade. Only vintage, it only sees the light of day in very good years. 2008 will have been one of these, with an extraordinarily balanced wine, “generous, subtle, greedy…“. The ideal pairing: a great occasion.

READ ALSO: Éric Frechon’s five favorite cuvées: “I never drank wine before I was 25”

Domaine de la Grosse Pierre – Chiroubles the big stone
Beaujolais-Chiroubles
Price: from €11.50

A pure Beaujolais Gamay vinified by the spirited Pauline Passot, a young winemaker whose wines never cease to amaze us year after year. A small bomb of red fruits, with delicate notes of blackcurrant, with a slightly peppery finish. “A gourmet cuvée, the perfect reference to meet up with friends“. The ideal pairing: a beef tartare.

Alexandre Bain – L d’Ange 2016
Loire
Price: from €80 (in magnum)

The flagship winemaker of the Loire vineyards, Alexandre Bain reconciles with this cuvée lovers and detractors of Sauvignon Blanc. Vinified without sulphur, of remarkable purity, here is “a natural and complex white, which evolves sip after sip“. The ideal pairing: poultry with beautiful morels.

Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville – Meursault Santenots 2016
Burgundy Meursault Premier Cru
Price: from €136

A 100% Chardonnay in the Meursault appellation, on a terroir to which we lend the elegance of a great Volnay. On the nose, there are beautiful fruity, slightly smoky aromas, and on the palate a sharp minerality, which is eclipsed on the finish towards this very delicate buttery side that distinguishes the great Burgundian whites. The ideal match:A great event!»

The editor recommends:

The five favorite cuvées of Julien Dumas, starred chef at the Saint-James restaurant in Paris: “A wine can make me shiver”
» The five favorite cuvées of Philippe Mille, two-star chef from Les Crayères, in Reims
» The five favorite cuvées of Adrien Cachot, former Top Chef finalist in residence at Le Perchoir, in Paris

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