GASTRONOMIC CRITICISM – In Cassis, Dimitri Droisneau, who has just won his third Michelin star, delivers unique cuisine that has well and truly reached maturity.
Special envoy to Cassis
Everything is said from the first bite, this cute portion of raw shrimp rubbed with arabica and placed on a spoon with an oversized handle. Texture of the sweet flesh like a sea candy. Intricacy of its flavor covered with a veil of coffee. Unknown feeling. Absolute subtlety. Immediate take off. Everything is said, but don’t worry, we’ll stay to listen to the rest.
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Dimitri Droisneau performs at La Villa Madie, which has just won the third Michelin star, his unique score. He signs a cuisine not of demonstration, but, much more complicated, of evocation, based on a discreet crescendo starting from the first note. This Norman of origin (like his friend Arnaud Donckele, the poet of Saint-Tropez), delivers a vision of the Provençal terroir without fifes or tambourines, based on dizzying sensations. He has been running the house since 2013…