Adopted champenois Paul-François Vranken, producer of white wines with a noble sparkle, had the lucky hand by offering the cuisine of Lucas Carton to the brilliant chef Hugo Bourny for an expected revival of this beautiful restaurant: an admirable institution.
Nothing is more difficult for a traditional chef than to bring to life, through the interplay of casseroles and flavors, a great Parisian table which had its hour of glory in the middle of the 20th century.and century.
A unique restaurant, three centuries of existence
The official inauguration of the restaurant dates back to the construction of the building by the architect Charpentier in 1839. But it was in 1860 that its new owner, Mr. Augis, baptized it La Taverne de France, which became a popular place in the All-Paris of Napoleon III.
The facade of the Lucas Carton restaurant. | TheSundayPhotographer
In 1880, the restaurant was acquired by Mr. Scaliet and renamed Lucas. In 1924 Francis Carton then acquired the establishment and put his name next to that of Lucas, attracting art lovers from all over the world to his home: he then became the illustrious Lucas Carton. It is to him that we owe the creation of the lounges on the first floor with private access via the Passage de la Madeleine, then very popular with politicians during the IIIand Republic.
All of the restaurant’s woodwork was made by Louis Majorelle and took four years to complete. They were carved from maple, sycamore and Ceylon lemon wood, in keeping with the spirit of the times. They have since been listed on the cultural heritage inventory of historic monuments and are in perfect condition, as are the sculptural bronze sconces with a woman’s face affixed to the walls. For true art lovers, Lucas Carton remains a restaurant like no other.
Tables laid at the Lucas Carton restaurant. | TheSundayPhotographer
Luckily, the restaurant-museum so dear to André Malraux has always been the property of art connoisseurs; the elegant table, of true refinement, remains a tribute to beauty and good taste.
Also, for decades, Lucas Carton had the best clientele in the capital, that of Maxim’s, La Tour d’Argent, Lapérouse, Grand Véfour, Ledoyen. Francis Carton was a truly cultured and demanding restorer. He was not a chef himself like Louis Vaudable, owner of Maxim’s, for a long time the best restaurant in Paris.
In 1933, the Michelin guide awarded three stars to Lucas Carton, who became one of the first to obtain them in Paris. After 1945, Marc Soustelle gave Lucas Carton its international fame.
In the 1960s, a whole generation of young cooks came to do their apprenticeship, including Alain Senderens, who took over the restaurant from 1985 to 2013.
Noble cuisine has continued to play a decisive role in Lucas Carton’s star-studded status. For Gault & Millau, Lucas Carton was the standard-bearer of classic and modern cuisine lightened by Alain Senderens, creator of vanilla lobster: a delight that took Lucas Carton to the top in the second half of the 20th century.and century.
The current score of conductor Hugo Bourny
For more than fifteen years, Hugo Bourny has been trained with the best chefs: a remarkable passage with Arnaud Donckele at the Vague d’Or, a common love of people and the simplicity of fine products that will give birth to a sincere relationship and sustainable. Then he joined the kitchen of chef Anne-Sophie Pic, and spent nearly nine years alongside the brilliant Valentinoise. There he learns rigor, excellence, the constant search for the quintessence of products.
Hugo Bourny, chef of the Lucas Carton restaurant. | BalladStudio
In 2019, he works for another inspiring star woman: Hélène Darroze. Arrived during the year, he takes particular care to accompany the chef and owner of the Jòia and Marsan restaurants in the development of her gastronomic table. The kitchen is crowned with success in 2021 with the obtaining of a second star in Paris.
But Hugo Bourny wants a new project. The Vranken family, owner of Lucas Carton, meets him and the current passes very quickly between them, which will give birth to this new collaboration.
With the best of the French terroir, with the complicity of the women and men for whom he works, the chef of Lucas Carton is constantly looking for balanced agreements on the plate.
Hugo Bourny offers a cuisine of emotion, a cuisine of intuition as he likes to say.
His conception of cooking: an adventure between people and products. From there will be born the recipe which will sometimes reflect the course of the chef, his history, his roots, sometimes his mood, his terroir, or simply the emotion of a moment.
Bringing a wind of freedom to this sleeping beauty is the current project of chef Hugo Bourny.
Second in value, this great cook with the hands of a magician has followed the progress of chefs of great talent step by step, and has undertaken to rethink the fine cuisine of Lucas Carton, a skilful alliance between tradition and modernity. Lucas Carton is him, his style, purity and generosity: the third star is on the horizon.
Seven great dishes from Chef Bourny and Jordan Talbot, an excellent pastry chef
• Crab cake from the Breton coastsalmond velvet with citron, celery and sea urchin garum
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, the rack cake. | TheSundayPhotographer
• Laurent’s market garden leek from Val d’Oisesea bass just marinated and nasturtium, sparkling ginger broth
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Laurent’s Val d’Oise market garden leek. | TheSundayPhotographer
• The Brillat Savarin selected by the Alexandre farm in thin ravioli with yellow wine, mushrooms, hazelnuts and Douglas fir
• Scallops from Florian and Marie poached in fresh butter, cockles, glasswort and saffron
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Florian and Marie’s scallops. | TheSundayPhotographer
• Monkfish from our wholesaler Gauthier marinated in wild garlic then smoked and matured, Chartreuse and fisherman’s white asparagus
• Beef from Arnaud Billon matured by us rubbed with seaweed and Katsuobushi (dried bonito), béarnaise, salicornia and celery crisps
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Arnaud Billon’s beef. | TheSundayPhotographer
• The Meyer lemon from Etienne and Perrine Schaeller in marmalade and confit, almond sorbet and orange blossom
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Étienne and Perrine Schaeller’s Meyer lemon. | TheSundayPhotographer
• Hippolyte Courty’s Sudan Rume coffee in a thin crunchy sheet, textures and Kalamansi sorbet
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Stéphanie Leveau’s Perche poultry. | TheSundayPhotographer
And also: Perche poultry by Stéphanie Leveau black garlic, fermented Jerusalem artichoke, garlic flower oil and cardamom, Nicolas Berger’s grand cru chocolate from Venezuelamace-infused cream, mint sorbet, cocoa nibs.
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Nicolas Berger’s grand cru chocolate from Venezuela. | TheSundayPhotographer
“Around caviar” menu
• Early Baerii Caviar & the rack langoustine in fine carpaccio, smoked raw cream, Meyer lemon, Tasmanian pepper leaves
• Prestige Osetra caviar and locker cake
• Vintage Baerii caviar and garden leek
• Osetra caviar and beef from Arnaud Billon
• Baerii Origin caviar and coconut, verjuice in sorbet, creamy lemon and oyster leaf
At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Baerii Origin caviar and coconut. | TheSundayPhotographer
9, place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 65 22 90. Menus at 95 euros in four courses, at 135 euros in five courses, at 185 euros in seven courses. All Caviar menu at 260 euros. Card from 180 to 250 euros. Full in the evening. Closed Sunday and Monday.